Trout pâté with pickled fennel
“Christmas is the one time we're encouraged to overindulge, and what a joy it can be”, says Anna Tobias, chef at London restaurant Café Deco. “This recipe is a delicious alternative to smoked salmon on Christmas Day - the pâté and fennel require a bit of prep, but the result is well worth it.”
Wine notes
Fritz Haag's Riesling 2023, from Germany's Mosel, combines racy acidity with lovely minerality. With aromas and flavours of Granny Smiths and white peaches, it pairs beautifully with the pâté, with its lemon and dill notes, and the fennel (£18.95; fortnumandmason.com).
Recipe information
Yield
Serves 6
Ingredients
For the trout pâté
For the pickled fennel
To serve
Preparation
Step 1
First, make a curing mixture. Roughly chop the dill stalks and place in a food processor with the sugar and 200g fine sea salt. Blend until the stalks have been incorporated into the salt and sugar (it's fine if there are still a few bits).
Step 2
Take a Tupperware or another non-reactive container that will fit the fillets in one layer snugly. Place half the curing mixture in the bottom. Lay the fillets on top and cover them with the remaining mixture. Cover and place in the fridge for at least 6 hours or overnight.
Step 3
Rinse the fillets, pat dry with paper towel and place in a snug single layer in a saucepan. Zest half the lemon using a potato peeler and add to the pan. Add the oils, peppercorns and fennel seeds. If the fillets are not quite submerged, top up with extra oil. Cook on a low heat until the trout is cooked through (10-15 minutes), then allow to cool completely. (The fish can be cooked in advance; it will keep in the fridge for up to 3 days.)
Step 4
Once cool, remove the trout from the pan, throwing away the oil and lemon zest. Remove and discard the skin from the fish, and flake the flesh into a mixing bowl, keeping an eye out for bones.
Step 5
Chop the dill fronds and then add to the bowl with the crème fraîche. Finely grate the remaining lemon zest and squeeze in the juice. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper (start cautiously with the salt, as the trout has already been cured lightly). Mix it all together thoroughly with a wooden spoon, breaking up the flakes of fish until you achieve a rough pâté texture.
Step 6
For the pickled fennel, trim the tops and base of the bulb. Remove the tough outer layer. Thinly slice the rest of it from top to bottom, using a mandolin if possible, aiming for a 2mm thickness. Peel and slice the onion in a similar way.
Step 7
Add the vinegar, sugar, spices and 2tsp salt to a saucepan. On a medium heat, bring to the boil. Plunge the onion and fennel into the mixture and bring back to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes.
Step 8
Pour it all into a container, then cover with parchment paper and a small weight to keep the fennel and onion submerged. Ideally, allow this to sit in the fridge for a few days before draining and serving with the pâté and some toasted brown bread or sourdough.
