A fantastical Somerset rectory, restored by a descendant of the Fry chocolate dynasty
Not many 25-year-olds choose a rurally located Georgian rectory in need of restoration as their first property. Indeed, as Cosmo Fry observes, ‘at the time, my friends were buying basement flats in Fulham or Chelsea.’ But forty-four years on, while they’ve sold and re-bought, Cosmo – along with an African Grey parrot named Bucky – is still living in that rectory. Situated in Mells, one of the prettiest villages in Somerset, it has both provided a canvas for his creativity and prompted new directions. And within the gracefully proportioned rooms are some decidedly groovy corners – for these are interiors where faux marble meets Formica, David Hicks is offset by Homebase, and collections feature exquisite antiques, museum quantities of memorabilia, and art that speaks of the innovative ideals of the 1960s.
Notably, there have been Frys in the west country for generations. Cosmo is descended from Joseph Fry, who in 1761 founded the Bristol-based chocolate company that became J.S. Fry and Sons; its merger with Cadbury’s after the First World War was managed by Cosmo’s grandfather. Cosmo’s father, inventor and engineer Jeremy Fry, was part of a bohemian set that numbered artists and designers including Kaffe Fassett, Ossie Clark and Bill Gibb. Cosmo grew up ‘hanging out’ in their studios, while home was a Georgian house in Bath, with ‘leather floors, pewter walls and felt ceilings’. Aged 22, Cosmo set up a Formica furniture company, which also offered framing; ‘I like the clean lines, and the durability,’ he says, of the material. This rectory was in commuting distance, and ‘somewhere I could exercise my own aesthetic.’
A fire in the 1930s had brought down the roof and destroyed every room except the drawing room. Although the house had been rebuilt, it was missing the mouldings and architectural details that distinguish its period, which Cosmo – who does ‘everything except hang wallpaper’ – has put back himself. ‘Wild weekend parties’ segued to marriage and children, and he converted the attic to establish another bedroom and bathroom. Details were added: the mirrored shutters in the dining room owe to his having accompanied his friend Nicky Haslam to the 1987 Wilsford Manor sale, where he admired how Bright Young Thing Stephen Tennant had lived with the same.
Cosmo credits his late wife, the fashion editor Lulu Anderson, with much of the current décor – and, ten years ago, with having moved the kitchen to the south side of the house and papered it with an Orla Kiely pattern. Modifications continue: five years ago, the exterior render was replaced, and Cosmo has ‘finally almost conquered’ a long-term leak in a first-floor bedroom, which has necessitated replacing the Colefax & Fowler ‘Seraphina’ wallpaper more often than he would have liked. ‘I’m also, now that I’m living here alone again, gradually returning the palette to the more neutral tones I instilled in my twenties,’ he continues, explaining that when it comes to colour, ‘I’m picture-led.’
Those pictures line every wall. There are a significant number of paintings by Cosmo’s cousin, the acclaimed artist Anthony Fry, who was a friend and contemporary of Craigie Aitchison and Euan Uglow, and most of whose works Cosmo framed. There are a few landscapes by another cousin, the influential Bloomsbury Group artist, writer and curator Roger Fry (subject of a new biography, and the current exhibition at the Museum of Somerset.) And Cosmo also collects J.S. Fry & Sons packaging and products, an inherited accumulation that he has enthusiastically built on, ‘initially through car boot sales, now it’s eBay.’
Alongside are editions of sculptures and light pieces from the Unlimited series of artworks that Cosmo’s father initiated in the 1960s. Developed as a non-profit antidote to the exclusivity of the art world – and the traditionally limited nature of print runs – Jeremy Fry set up a production line for kinetic-themed works by several important international artists of the day. Kiboshed after only 18 months by the sudden introduction of a punitive tax, the editions are now significantly rarer than they were intended to be – though Cosmo retains a small quantity. When we visit, the dining room table is covered in multiples of Mary Martin’s Rotation, which he is cleaning, ready for exhibition and sale at the London Original Print Fair in May.
Cosmo closed his Formica company in 2015 – though he still makes Formica furniture to commission and does framing; ‘I’ve framed probably 75% of what’s in this house,’ he says. He also produces a line of plate racks which originated from an Art Nouveau-esque set designed by his father and French architect Didier Bertrand. Cosmo added further styles – Gothic Revival and Arts and Crafts - commissioned from set designer Carl Toms, and they can, alternatively, come as bookshelves. But his chief focus now is gardening, ‘which for at least three of the decades I lived here, didn’t interest me at all.’
It began with his own garden, during lockdown. Then, two years ago, he and his girlfriend, American singer songwriter Diane Birch, took on the lease of the famous Walled Garden at Mells. Open from the beginning of April to the end of September, there is a plant nursery and a café, for which the coming harvest of wild garlic will presently be turned into pesto. But Cosmo and Diane are adding to the existing footprint and have spent the winter planting the ‘Sacred Garden’, inspired by monastic healing gardens. There is a planned programme of concerts that will take place within it, and ‘it’s the most rewarding pursuit I’ve embarked on in years,’ recounts Cosmo. As he muses on the evolution of the house, what rings out is the extraordinary capacity he has found for change to co-exist with constancy.
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